I was bored with Raspberry Pi 3B because my AlexaPi project had to be on hold. Why? Well, it seems the credentials that Amazon issued to me as developer expire pretty fast, I was only able to play with it for about a week. It was fun and exciting to play with, so it really makes anything else boring. So I think . . .
Very often I encounter a beautiful image with black background but with a slight set back — the background is not as “black” as the author (and I) intended to be. And again often, you can see lots of photoshop efforts to make it black, such as spotty blobs of different shades of black, traces of black brushes, etc, but these efforts fail too frequently to wonder how to get a good clean black background!
In last blog, I covered general thoughts about using C-mount lenses on MFT or super 16 cameras, I think it is time to do some testings on these cheap C-mount lenses.
APS-C coverage C-mount lenses are getting more popular than ever, here are two first generation ones, a 35mm and a 25mm.
Ever since I bought the Panasonic GH5, I was shocked by the fact that lenses for Micro Four Thirds (MFT) cameras are so expensive. Though, I am able to salvage my Canon lenses by using an adapter with and without speed boost glasses, I am still in search for some other options. Needless to say, I happened upon some C-mount lenses and I am amazed, to say the least, by the performance of some of these lenses.
There are thousands of C-mount lenses out there with various focal length, sensor coverage, and above all, quality, but not all of them can be used on MFT cameras, so how do we choose?
When I first showed an micro sized automatic focus stacking rail video, the response was over whelming. Some requested an DIY version of it. Though it only took me about two days, one day for hardware design and one day for software development to build a complete system shown in the video below, it is not that easy to actually write a blog about it. Why? Because it is so easy to design a PCB using Eagle and then solder components on it. Writing a blog and building one with Arduino is kinda tedious because you have to wire them and it is messy.
Anyways, here is the video I shot showing what I did, see how clean it is. While using Arduino might be messy but you will be able to do it. Important disclaimer: I am the designer of MJKZZ Focus Stacking Rail Systems
I have been asked many times about why there are streaking patterns around border of final stacked image. Well, the most common cause of these streaking patterns is due to the optical instruments used — the magnification of optical instrument changes when the distance between the subject and sensor changes. When stacking algorithm attempts to align all images, there will be mismatch of subject size. Information in one image just does not exist in another, thus stacking software often fills the final image with some arbitrary (arbitrarily chosen) pixels. However, if a telecentric optical instrument is used, due to the nature of telecentricity, there is no change in magnification, therefore there should be no or very little streaking patterns. But many still get streaking patterns even when a telecentric optical instrument is used. What gives? Here is why!
I have just encountered the need to read a digital dial indicator for another personal project. However, most of these digital dial indicators are “expensive” (normally cost about 30 – 100 USD), so I figure to just get a cheap digital caliper costing about 3 USD to start with. I totally understand that a cheap digital caliper might have different data protocols, but from what I gathered on the internet, most of these Chinese digital measurement tools use similar format — a clock and a data.
Arduino output matches (closely) caliper reading. There are some discrepancy, but I think it the poor caliper that is displaying wrong data
Not able to find my USB logic analyzer and my oscilloscope is dead, I decided to use an Arduino as signal analyzer. read more